The best time to visit Ethiopia

Ethiopia’s highlands sit high enough that "hot" is rarely the problem — it is rain, not heat, that shapes the best time to visit. Broadly, the dry months from October to February are the easiest for travel, and they overlap with some of the country’s most striking festivals.

The seasons

• October to February — the main dry season and the most popular time to visit. Clear skies, green landscapes just after the rains, and comfortable highland temperatures.
• March to May — warmer, with occasional short rains ("belg"). Still workable, and quieter.
• June to September — the main rains ("kiremt"). Roads in rural areas can be difficult and some trekking routes muddy, though the highlands turn vivid green and cities carry on as normal.

Because of the altitude, pack layers whatever the month: Addis Ababa and the highlands are pleasantly cool by day and genuinely cold at night.

Festivals worth planning around

• Timkat (19 January) — the Ethiopian Orthodox celebration of Epiphany, and the country’s most spectacular festival. Gondar and Lalibela are famous for it; book a place to stay well ahead.
• Genna (7 January) — Ethiopian Christmas, especially moving in Lalibela among the rock-hewn churches.
• Meskel (27 September) — the Finding of the True Cross, marked with huge bonfires ("Demera"), notably in Addis Ababa’s Meskel Square.
• Enkutatash (11 September) — Ethiopian New Year, the start of the calendar and the end of the rains.

A note on dates: Ethiopia follows its own calendar of thirteen months and runs several years behind the Gregorian one, so a local year and month may not match what you expect. Festival dates above are given in the Gregorian calendar.

If a festival is your reason for the trip, treat accommodation as the thing to lock in first — beds in Gondar and Lalibela go quickly around Timkat and Genna.