Exploring the Danakil Depression
A guide to the Danakil Depression — the Erta Ale lava lake, the neon springs of Dallol, and the salt flats, all from a base in Mekelle.
The Danakil Depression, in the Afar lowlands of northeastern Ethiopia, is one of the strangest and most extreme landscapes on earth — much of it more than 100 metres below sea level, and among the hottest inhabited places anywhere. It is a raw, volcanic world of lava, salt and sulphur, and an unforgettable expedition for those prepared for the conditions.
The highlights
- Erta Ale — a shield volcano cradling one of the world’s few permanent lava lakes, usually reached on a night hike to camp on the rim.
- Dallol — a hydrothermal field of neon-yellow, green and orange sulphur, salt and acid pools, unlike anywhere else on the planet.
- The salt flats of Lake Assale, where Afar miners still cut slabs of salt by hand and camel caravans carry them up to the highlands.
How to visit
The Danakil is remote, roadless in places and genuinely harsh, so it is visited only on organised multi-day tours with 4x4s, local Afar guides and, in this sensitive border region, an armed escort. These are arranged from Mekelle, the Tigray capital, which is where trips begin and end. Do not attempt it independently.
When to go and what to expect
- Go in the cooler months, roughly November to February; even then daytime heat is intense and there is little shade.
- Nights are spent in very basic camps — expect simple bedding out under the stars and no facilities.
- Bring more water than you think you need, sun protection, sturdy shoes for sharp lava and salt, and a torch for the Erta Ale hike.
Because tours depart from Mekelle, and because the region’s access can change, check current travel advice as you plan. Browse places to stay in Mekelle for the nights before and after your expedition.